We enjoyed our last breakfast at Maison Victoria in Cap-à-L’Aigle on the front porch over looking the St-Lawrence before heading out on the second half of our journey.
It had been decided the night before that we would cross the river and explore the South side of the St-Lawrence.
We took the early morning ferry from St-Siméon over to Rivière-du-Loup. The ride takes about an hour and a half and costs $45 for a car and $20 per passenger. It seemed a little expensive but saved us about a 7 hour car ride going back to Quebec City and then up on the other side.
It was another beautiful day.
We arrived in Rivière-du-Loup around 11am and headed towards Bic.
We stopped in at Cantine de la Mer for some fresh seafood. There was more choice on this side of the river. Johanne had a crab roll and I had some popcorn shrimp.
By 1 pm we came to Bic National Park. We turned off the highway onto an old dirt road called chemin du Golf. At the end of the road was a sign marked Private Property. It was low tide so we followed the shoreline to the tip of the bay called the Pointe-aux-Anglais.
At the Pointe-aux-Anglais, there are two houses; one green and one red. The green house was built by F.W. Evans, my great grandfather. The red house belonged to his best friend MacFarlane.
It’s a large property overlooking the bay and the St-Lawrence.
Right across from the “Pointe” is an Island called Isle Massacre.
A little history about Isle Massacre from Wikipedia:
According to Jacques Cartier, the Battle at Baie de Bic happened in the spring of 1534, 100 Iroquois warriors massacred a group of 200 Mi’kmaq camped on Massacre Island in the St. Lawrence River. Baie de Bic was an annual gather place for the Mi’kmaq along the St. Lawrence. Mi’kmaq scouting parties notified the village that the Iroquois attack the evening before the morning attack. They evacuated 30 of the infirm and elderly and about 200 Mi’kmaq vacated their encampment on the shore and retreated to an island in the bay. They took cover in a cave on the island and covered the entrance with branches. The Iroquois arrived at the vacated village in the morning. Finding it vacated, they divided into search parties but failed to find the Mi’kmaq until the morning of the next day.
I used to play in the cave as a kid.
Just beyond the end of the island was a group of paddle boarders enjoying their lesson.
Flying high above our heads was a seagull looking for its dinner.
Others chose to rest on the river’s bed and feast on clams, mussels and crab.
They certainly picked the bottom clean and left only the shells.
As we walked around Isle Massacre, we noticed the vegetation started high up on the rocks. At high tide, the water comes halfway up the rocks.
The bay of Bic.
My mother, her parents and grand-parents spent their summers at Bic.
Going back at least 35 years ago, the past residents were as follows: the blue roof belonged to the The Magors, the dark grey and light grey roof tops belonged to the Soucies.
The house with the red roof belonged to my Uncle Ken Christmas – this is where I stayed with my parents Tom and Sherrill Thompson (Christmas), my brother Brian and grand-parents Evans and Helen Christmas (Sare).
When I spoke to my Mom, she mentioned that the rocks were not there when she used to come. They must have been placed there to hold up the wall.
The house was sold many years ago and is now owned by Najat and her husband. They converted the home into a B&B called Le Gite du Havre. I am hoping to go next spring with my mom and spend a night at the B&B.
On the front lawn is an old row boat covered in grass. Najat said it was there when they moved in.
The low flowing rivers and tides leave the boats resting on the river’s bed waiting until the tides returns.
On our way back to the highway, we passed the golf course that my family helped develop many years ago.
A quick stop in Rimouski to buy dinner and we were on our way back to St-Fabien-Sur-Mer to visit with Claudette. She has a charming house right on the water.
This little guy was stationed right under the bird feeder. He didn’t seem to mind me as long as I kept my distance.
It was wonderful to meet one of Johanne’s close friends, Claudette.
They shared stories about their time working together while we sipped our wine and admired the view.
Claudette has a tiny dog named Sky. He looks small but has the personality of a large dog.
We had a wonderful day exploring Bic and reconnecting with my past and then visiting with Claudette.
Tomorrow we start our journey back towards Quebec City but first a visit with the wood people.